Saturday, December 19, 2009

Light a candle!

Finland becomes a hibernating heaven with sunrises at 9:23 and sunsets at 15:12; the total length of a day exactly 5h 49m (in the Helsinki area). Even when the sun does  peak through thick snow (or rain) clouds, it rests idly on the horizon, rarely rising above the tree line. Without snow, this can become quite a desolate little place. (Thankfully, snow was in the forecast before my trip.)

While darkness can be debilitating (unless of course you get hours worth of vitamin D from the various artificial sunlight emitting contraptions, pill form or milk) candles make it oh-so hygge and bearable!

This household, like most in Scandinavia, following the Chinese proverb - 'Don't curse the darkness - light a candle.' (Which was incorporated by Adlai Stevenson praising Eleanor Roosevelt in an address to the United Nations General Assembly in 1962 - 'She would rather light candles than curse the darkness, and her glow has warmed the world.') Light your lanterns, tea candles, candles...!


Monday, December 14, 2009

more moschino


Here is Santa's wish-list a la moschino:

1.) He doesn't feel appreciated enough (appreciate him more)

2.) Too many requests in too little time (don't be greedy this xmas; la crise financière continues even in Santa land, ya' know!)

3.) The reindeer are threatening to strike (sigh...RER, you made my life tough this season)

4.) In Australia his suit feels too hot (no more chocolate!)

....

5.) Has problems staying awake at night (remember to leave Santa coffee)

6.) Chimneys nowadays are too narrow (or he's getting too fat.)


Sunday, December 13, 2009

Le marché de Noël à La Defense

Les marchés de Noël are not customarily French Christmas practices, but are in fact traditions that have seeped into the  Christmas consumer culture through Germany by way of Strasbourg in the north-wester region of Alsace. Every season, little wooden huts and a plethora of Christmas decorations are set up all around Paris, the largest (and cheapest) at La Defense, although le marchés on Champs Elysees is well-worth a visit if you can stomach the many tourists! Get your gluvine, sauerkraut, bratwurst, kartoffelsalat, and lebkuchen...and get into the Christmas (consumer) spirit!

Friday, December 11, 2009

Les Enfants modèles au musée de l’Orangerie



The notion of childhood, it has been argued, is a social construction.  Looking at Medieval artworks, one is taken aback by representations of children as literally, 'little people' or 'mini adults'.  Jean Jacques Rousseau, the French philosopher is the man usually credited with creating the modern notion of childhood.  Much like other liberal-minded thinkers, Rousseau believed that childhood was the brief interlude of sanctuary before encountering the perils and hardships of adulthood. "Why rob these innocents of the joys which pass so quickly," Rousseau pleaded. "Why fill with bitterness the fleeting early days of childhood, days which will no more return for them than for you?"

In this exhibit at the musée de l’Orangerie, you will see how art and artists have interpreted the role of children in their period of sanctuary before adulthood. 

Thursday, December 10, 2009

Nōgaku "Noh" Theater @ La maison culturel japonais


I had my first experience of Théâtre nô at La maison culturel japonais this past week, and was struck by the peacefulness, the erratic sounds and the slow pace of the piece.  The production was divided into two parts, one was a more traditional representation, the other more modern. What interested me was the gender role reversals in the modern piece. In traditional nô theater, men assumed all roles regardless of intended gender. In the modern piece,  the lead character was played by a Western female. 

Wednesday, December 9, 2009

Paris en hiver

Le marché de President Wilson



Every Wednesday and Saturday from 9-noon, L'avenue de President Wilson welcomes a feast of delicacies. A must for fresh produce! Bring your basket, cash, and your two elbows to make your way down the transformed avenue. 

Monday, December 7, 2009

Rue de Grenelle: Lécher les vitrines

Classic, chic, and AMAZING brought to you by the exceptional and quintessentially French fashion-house Hermes who's creative Kaleidoscope-themed femme fatal in aviator-gear beckons you into her chic 200 (m2) jumbo jet.  Hermes' signature orange brightens up even the most dreary of days!

...and if your curious, the details are as follows:

Hermès Ephémère

16 rue de Grenelle

Tél. 01 53 63 02 19

Horaires : 10h30 - 19h00 

Rue de Grenelle: Barbie and Louboutin meet its love at first sight!


Barbie and Christian Louboutin meet at the Rue de Grenelle boutique.  While it makes for a fun and sexy window display, it is a rather sad message to women. 

Santa in psycho-analysis @ Moschino


I was super, super sad that on the ONE day that I take my camera, the to-die-for Moschino elephant and pink silk-ruffle dress vitrine display was taken down replaced by a rather dull, fat Santa in a psycho-analysis session with chic-Parisianne femme fatal. Ugh...Dear Santa: Bring sexy back!

33 Rue Saint-Guillaume (and Rue de Grenelle)
75007 Paris

Poupée ou Bebe?..Bonton will cater to both!


This epitomizes the French 'petite bebe' fashion: dress your sweet lil' chillun' in impossibly fine and doll-like clothes so that they give the impression of being little angels...when we all know what they really are like ;) Bonton has delicious little couture shoes and dresses for your little lap-full of loves. 

Bathtub toys as window display!


Peace, love, and rainbows at this children's clothing boutique. Although the clothes are rather dull, the background window display is ingenious: a multitude of colorful bathtub rubber toys that we've all played with, tightly packed into a heart design. Little plastic animals emitting loooove!

Carline Gilson: get your couture undies


French philosophy of life is closely linked to the idea that if it looks good, it will taste infinitely better--that's at least their values when it comes to gastronomy, but also to the body and pleasure! Little ultra chic lingerie shops pop up almost as frequently as Starbucks in NYC. Okay, not that frequently! But still often enough for anyone to think: ah yes, I do need another couture nightgown or slip.... 

This is one of my favorite on Rue de Grenelle, Carline Gilson...Their window-display changes almost as frequently as one should change undies!

Where to get your 500 Euro bra?

18 Rue de Grenelle
75007 Paris

Thursday, November 26, 2009

Chez Marianne

I spent Thanksgiving dinner at Chez Marianne, mainly because I had walked by this little joint several times and it has always been jam packed. While a little on the pricey side (for, lets be honest,  pita, hummus, falafel, and other Middle-Eastern goodness) it is worth a shot. I would however, recommend the little pita stand down the street for less and honestly, a much better meal!

Monday, November 23, 2009

La Petite Marquise: Pour les petits et les grands gourmands

In New York, I became a Pizza Snob, tempted only by Sal and Carmine's, or Joe's.  Cream de la cream or nothing. (Lil' Frankies  was a close third ...)

In Paris, its la baguette.  There is nothing like a fresh, crisp, slightly warm baguette that has been carefully prepared according to the stringent French baguette-laws.  No joke. Like all else that governs this country there are rules and regulations, and paperwork to follow that dictate the baguette's properties.  

While I have not had the chance to explore all leading bakeries in Paris, I am going to shamelessly advertise my neighborhood's boulangerie, La Petite Marquise where the superior quality of la baguette is on par with it's service. 


Do not confuse the perfectly shaped baguette with its inferior brother: le bâtard! (Bastard, en anglais!)

Thursday, November 19, 2009

Gooooooal: Vive la France

In case you slept through the boisterous and clamorous celebrations late last night all over Paris, let me inform you that: No, France did not win the world cup. They merely qualified having tied with Ireland 1-1. Living near L'Arc de Triumph and Champs Elysees has its benefits, but last night's raucous made for a rather sleepless night. As an added bonus to the never-ending honking, Algeria qualified too sending emotions and flags running wild...

Wednesday, November 18, 2009

Les Triplets de Belleville--its nuts!

Take the M(2) to Belleville, the multi-cultural and multi-arrondissement (includes part of the 11e, 20e, 19e, 10e on the Parisian escargo map) neighborhood for excellent nut-spice-Middle-Easter-Chinese-Jewish-Lebanese-Moroccan-you-name-it markets. Heavenly pâtisserie and boulangerie orientales--think baklava in multitude of forms and shapes, and flat-bread galore. Patisserie Orientale La Rose Sucrée was one such shop where the elaborate baklava looked more like precious bijoux than edibles. The kind storekeeper gave us a sample of the Malfoufe Noisette Homs, divine--but really, nuts, honey, filo and butter??  Impossible to fail. 

Definitely worth a visit--make it an entire day of exploring this modern day Granada (of course without the architectural exquisiteness of the Alhambra...) where cultures and religions are woven together in relative harmony. 

Fun fact: Belleville's most famous resident was Edith Piaf...

Tuesday, November 17, 2009

Fear not the Soufflé!

Oh, those tricky and temperamental egg-whites!   

Don't mix that batter too much! 

What if your soufflé never rises? Tsk, tsk! 

Or flops upon serving? (Gasp!)

Fear the Soufflé! 

Those dreadful physical manifestations of a soufflé failure, a testament to derisory cooking skills, are enough to keep you far away from this truly scrumptious meal. 

Contrary to its portrayal in popular media and culture, soufflé preparation is actually pretty simple; its really much more of a mental challenge than any kind of representation of culinary proclivity. A few tricks to assure success: 

Use eggs that are at room temperature.

Be sure that when you separate the whites from yoke, no yoke sneaks into the white--this will prevent the whites from fluffing.

Use an electric whisk to beat the egg whites, in a very clean (and dry) bowl. Beat egg whites to a soft peak and a satin look.

When folding the egg whites into your Béchamel sauce, be gentle...


Lucky (très cher!) charms


When I was contemplating what kind of soufflé to make, I came across my favorite fungi, the chantarelle at the market.  My father, of-course would consider it a mortal sin to make anything other than chanterelle smörgås, but it was not so much his objections to 'wasting' the perfect mushroom than the ridiculous price for the delicacies at 31 Euros/kilo, that kept me at bay...  

It makes one appreciate those brim-filled baskets from the summer-cottage...long September hours spent deep in the tick-infested, mosquito plagued, elk-poop ridden forest hunting for the little hidden lucky charms. Hmm..

I opted for the chantarelle's shoddier relative, les champignons. It was delicious, non-the-less!

Thursday, November 12, 2009

Prelle, please.

 Prelle, located at 5 Place Victoires in the first arrondissement, (tel 01 42 36 67 21) is a descendant from one of the oldest silk furnishing fabric factories in Lyon.  The 5-generations old family own business has worked on some of the most regal and renown palaces and castles in France, including Versailles and the Louvre. 

Although you will not be able to see the manufacturing process at their Paris boutique, you will be able to appreciate the vast collection in their show room. I recommend taking the tour. 

Tuesday, November 10, 2009

Escapism



Behold, a late August sunset on a little paradise summer-cottage in Finland. It is this impression Mlle. Global Gallerina seeks to find inner peace and harmony on those bleak winter days when the rat-race, the boundless quick tempo and cacophony of a city overwhelm. 

Sunday, November 8, 2009

13e: Chinatown for Tom Yum @ Tang Frères

Tang Frères.

Hidden inside an old French railway warehouse is the enormous Asian produce market, Tang Frères which was established by the Ratanawan brothers, Laotian immigrants. The smells and sights from everywhere will overwhelm you. It is a great experience, much more civilized and richer than NYC's Chinatown! 

I was, however, disappointed with the Tom Yum paste selection and, consequently, the outcome of my Tom Yum soup:( The sushi was perfect though!

48, ave d'Ivry. 75013. Métro: Porte d'Ivry.

Pierre Soulages: Outrenoir, Painting with Black


<J’aime l’autorité du noir. C’est une couleur qui ne transige pas. Une couleur violente, mais qui incite pourtant a l’intériorisation. À la fois couleur, et non-couleur.>


Pierre Soulages le peintre et l’artiste vivant le plus connu de la scène française est né en 1919, à Rodez en Aveyron. En 1924, à un très jeune age, Soulages a perdu son père. Dans sa jeunesse, Soulages a montre un intérêt pour les paysages, et une passion pour l’art romain. C’est à ce jeune age qu’il a proclamé son désire de devenir un artiste. À 18ans, Soulages est allé a Paris pour la première fois. C’est cet été là qu’il a visité les plus grands musées, et il a été inspire par Cézanne et Picasso. En 1940, pendant la deuxième guerre mondiale, Soulages a été appelé sous les drapeaux à Montpellier, mais il a rapidement quitte l’armée et a poursuivi son intérêt par l’art à L’école des Beaux-Arts. C’est cet été-là, à Montpellier, qu’il a connu l’artiste abstrait, Sonia Delaunay, et a develope un style unique, abstrait et géométrique. En 1941, Soulages a eu sa première exposition personnelle à la galerie Lydia Conti à Paris. À parti de 1946, il a travaillé a son atelier à Courbevoie, près de Paris ou il a connu Picabia, Hartung et Léger, ses contemporains. Pendant 1949-1952, ses œuvres d’art ont établi une réputation d’avant-garde et a la mode à Paris. En 1950, Soulages a gange, l’estime internationale avec des expositions collectives a New York, Londres et Copenhague.Ses œuvres sont s’inspires de ses voyages au Mexique, aux Etats-Unis, et au Japon en 1958. Pendant les années 1950, les plus grands musées du monde ont commencé à collectionner ses œuvres. Aujourd’hui il y a plus de 150 de ses œuvres dans des musées.
En 1979 quand Soulages a travaillé pour une exposition du Centre George Pompidou il a découvert la couleur noire. Il a découvert la profondeur, la lumière et la couleur noire, grâce a une toile imparfaite. Dès lors, son style a change profondément : il a refusé toute référence et forme figurative, toutes les tendances géométriques et toutes les couleurs. Il a privilégié la couleur noire, entièrement la couleur noire sur la toile. C’était le début de son style, qui s’appelle l'outrenoir.
 À l’age de 90 ans, Soulage demeure une figure très importante dans le monde de l’art. Ses œuvres content cher. Son actuelle rétrospective au Centre Pompidou est un fascinant regard sur sa vie et son travail. 

Coquilles Saint-Jacques à la Provençale

I got into my Julia Child-mode the other night and made a heavenly scallop dish. Just divine (although, really, its impossible for anything to go wrong when cooking with butter and garlic and white wine)!

Buy fresh scallops (à la marche, bien sur), white wine (dry, although it was fine with sweet! ha!) salt, peppa, bay leaf, shallots, butter, olive oil,thyme, swiss cheese, et voila. Delicious!

Learn 'How to Bake a Stuffed, Boned Duck in a Pastry Crust' too. 

L'As du Falafel, Best Falafel

So, why eat falafel in France? Why, indeed. 

Well, if truth be told, one can only consume a certain amount of the delicious, rich cream-butter-and-cheese infused gastronomy of France such as, Veau Prince Orloff, or Soufflé au Roquefort, or choucroute, before the waistline begins its interminable expansion, and one begins to lose appreciation for the finer delicacies of French haute cuisine.  

L'As du Falafel located in the chic and hip neighborhood of Les Marais is perfectly positioned on the lovely walking street of Rue des Rosiers right in the heart of art galleries, boutiques and vintage stores galore. It also happens to be one of the most vibrant Jewish communities. 

The falafels, for pocket change of 5E a piece, were just right, not too fried, the pita fresh and warm, the humus not too bitter, and an interesting addition of pickeled cabbage (a first for me..) and sautéd eggplant to die for...just perfect! La Varenne, the king of  bisque and Béchamel sauce, might even have agreed--ha! For an added bonus, walk across the street to the kosher bakery and get divine rugelach!

Even Mark Bittman, my vegan hero, never misses this spot when in town. (I've heard that Chez Marianne is a very close 2nd place winner, have yet to try it, though.) 

L'As du Fallafel, 34, rue des Rosiers (Métro: St. Paul); Closed Saturday.

♥ Rue Rembrant, Parc Monceau, 8e

Hidden behind the magnificent little green splotch known as Parc Monceau in the très très chic quartier of the 8e arronidssement and a natural frontier for the 17e arronidssement, is Rue Rembrant.  Thick, autumn-ripe vine leaves cling to the old art nouveau buildings. I can just imagine scenes of 1920's decadence and over-indulgence seeping out from the great lavishly curtained windows. 

Saturday, November 7, 2009

Ode to the Revolution, Nathalie by Gilbert Bécaud

In honor of the Russian Revolution (today: November 7th, 1917...)....a very popular French song from the 1960's played today on the radio...

Nathalie, Gilbert Bécaud

La place Rouge était vide

Devant moi marchait Nathalie
Il avait un joli nom, mon guide
Nathalie

La place Rouge était blanche
La neige faisait un tapis
Et je suivais par ce froid dimanche
Nathalie

Elle parlait en phrases sobres
De la révolution d'octobre
Je pensais déjà
Qu'après le tombeau de Lénine
On irait au cafe Pouchkine
Boire un chocolat

La place Rouge était vide
J'ai pris son bras, elle a souri
Il avait des cheveux blonds, mon guide
Nathalie, Nathalie...

Dans sa chambre à l'université
Une bande d'étudiants
L'attendait impatiemment
On a ri, on à beaucoup parlé
Ils voulaient tout savoir
Nathalie traduisait

Moscou, les plaines d'Ukraine
Et les Champs-Élysées
On à tout melangé
Et l'on à chanté

Et puis ils ont débouché
En riant à l'avance
Du champagne de France
Et l'on à dansé

Et quand la chambre fut vide
Tous les amis etaient partis
Je suis resté seul avec mon guide
Nathalie

Plus question de phrases sobres
Ni de révolution d'octobre
On n'en était plus là
Fini le tombeau de Lenine
Le chocolat de chez Pouchkine
C'est, c'était loin déjà

Que ma vie me semble vide
Mais je sais qu'un jour à Paris
C'est moi qui lui servirai de guide
Nathalie, Nathalie
Lyrics: Nathalie, Gilbert Bécaud

Tuesday, October 27, 2009

Day trip-Biking in Vernon

Located just 45 minutes outside of Paris with the SNCF, this is a charming (bon marché) and highly recommended little excursion North-Westward en route to Normandy. The sights, smells and pace of life of the town of Vernon in Eure are a welcomed change from modish, and quick tempo of Ile de Paris. Pick your own apples, grapes and blackberries on an (easy) 7km bike ride from Vernon to Monet's village of Giverny.  A visit to Monet's house and garden (Fondation Claude Monet) is a must preferably during the sping/summer months when the gardens are in full bloom. 

Wednesday, September 23, 2009

My endeavors at verse

To Mormor on your 80th Birthday

September 23rd 2009, come on, come all, come celebrate!

For those not aware, let me translate,

My Mormor, Sue-Aunt, is maturing in age;

Sue Maguire Beckner is turning to the Octogenarian page!

Born on the Autumnal Equinox;

You hail from the era of pre-jukebox and moonwalks,

Yes, 1929, what an auspicious year! (ha!)

And, weren't you quite the hand-full--or so I hear!

As a youthful charm, you captured many hearts,

At St. Agnes, and Smith you excelled in the arts.

Traversing the world withyour refinement and grace,

Thank-heavens Daddy Bruce scored with an ace!

You're a card playing pro, and a devil at the net

Some might tease, and call you quite the coquette!

What a gregarious hostess, with such culinary proclivity,

Why not mention your cardinal and bluebird affinity.

As written by the stars, you rein with such magnanimity,

You're always perfectly poised and ever so witty.

You're never lugubrious, and neither iniquitous,

And we all laud your endeavors at societal justice.

The many miles you've traveled, criss-crossing the continents,

Withbags full of goodies, you've brought your steady guidance.

From rampant stagflation of the Argentine Peso,

To wobbly Jakarta rickshaws, and that swimming pool gecko!

From Grankulla's pugent lilac tree,

And Warsaw, rather bleakly.

To our many homes, you've come bearing gifts,

But, its your presence that always, always uplifts!

And what happy dog days of summer,

Those warm nights, so tender.

T'was Annapolis childhood bliss,

Those precious memories, how I do miss:

Cathching fireflies in old glass jars

Or the nightly indulgence in our favorite Klondike bars!

The bathing in kitchen sinks,

And your betraying gold-bangled clinks.

You're the P, B &J-sammie expert,

The queen of 'tough-love' but always comfort,

The wrinkled elbows, of course we shan't forget!

But, where were you with our chickenpox onset?

So, read to me in Swedish! Tack and hor du, how about Luparu?

Nobody tells a story quite like Sue!

The lingering family oral anecdotes: Mormor: whare you are?

And the smell of your ol' beat-up Toyota car.

Oh, what a Mormor you've been, and what a Mormor you'll be

Let me sit by you at your vanity!

So much to admire, like your horticultural prowess,

And, how did you ever become such a lexical goddess?

I'm in awe of your everlasting sanguinity,

Hats off to you--you've reach eighty!

Oh Mormor, you are boundless, and more importantly, timeless!

Come, come! Come to Paris!

xx 

Wednesday, August 5, 2009

Tracking Traces @ Kiasma, Helsinki


Sometimes Finnish art exhibits truly surprise me. In a good way. I loved this exhibit!

"The world that surrounds us is full of signs and messages – traces of the world that contemporary art makes use of by copying, recycling, sampling and commenting on them. Traces can be found near and far: on the human body, in advertising images, on cereal packets and in the urban space. The traces can be physical imprints, visible signs, actions or memory traces. Some of the traces are left consciously, others are accidental. The one thing shared by the traces in the exhibition's works is that they transmit as well as shape our idea of ourselves and of the world. They are about life and the need for interaction."

Thursday, July 23, 2009

Monet @ Musée de l'Orangerie

Claude Monet was not only a gifted artist, but also a very intelligent man. At Musee de L'Orangerie, you will be able to appreciate the fruits of his labor: his enormous, all-encompasing, all-embracing 'Les Nymphéas,'  that he painted for the government of France to pay off his (many) taxes! 

Monday, July 20, 2009

The essentials: Coffee, Books and Design @ Merci: 111 Blvd. Beaumarchais, 3eme Arrt

This newly opened 'concept-store' on 111 Boulevard Beaumarchais in the 3rd arrondissement boasts a vast and unique collection of designers/ fashion/ lifestyle goods/ perfume, as well as a spacious, large-windowed cafe à la New York with heaps and stacks of used books (between 2, 5 or 10 Euros) in the entry lit by rather gaudy chandeliers.

The owners of Merci, Marie-France and Bernard Cohen, are the founders of Bonpoint, the chic French children's shop, and it seems as though with Merci, their children have finally grown up! The concept of Merci is simple--and geared towards the affluent yet 'responsible and sustainable' shopper: give to a children's charity in Madagascar while you shop! With the exception of the books and cafe au lait, prices are on the upper end of the spectrum and although they do feature some interesting high end designers at discounted prices, such as Jérôme Dreyfuss, YSL, Stella McCartney, Christian Tortu, Paul & Joe I still could not justify (charity or not!) paying 1200 Euros for a Prada over-coat!! All in all, its a eye-candy of a store and a peak is well worth it.

Go for the coffee and books as well as the fantastic Grom gelato!

Bistro: Chez Janou

Pouring out from Chez Janou a neighborhood bistro, are the happy sounds of satisfied epicureans and smells of dilectable traditional Provençal-style cuisine. Rumor has it that this little Marais resto on rue Roger Verlomme in the 3rd arrondissement boasts an extensive selection of the traditional French liquor, Pastis. Although my first taste of this gem did not entail any Pastis what-so-ever, I do heartily recommend their cheapest bottle of house red, a sultry Côtes du Rhône does magic with any selection from le menu! Be prepared for a row with the maitre d' who will most likely try to squeeze your party into the smallest corner of the restaurant despite the abundance of space avaliable! Just smile and say: 'Pardon, mais non!' Reservations are a must even on a rain-forecasted Thursday night when 'la crise' (credit crunch) rages on, because by 9.30PM this place is packed!
Photograph by John Kernick

Concert: Vivaldi and Pachelbel @ Île de Saint-Louis in Sainte-Chapelle

Imagine sitting in a French chapel on Île de Saint-Louis built in 1242 by the canonized King, Louis XII and a quartet is about perform. Sunlight streams into the chapel's magnificent rose window as Pachelbel's Cannon in D Major starts. You are perplexed because the program indicated a Mozart, but delighted, because it just so happens to be your favorite Baroque Era piece. By the end of Vivaldi's Four Seasons, you have entered a peaceful reverie!

Evening concert, Sainte-Chapelle

The celebrated windows flamed with light

directly pouring north across the Seine;

we restled into place. Then violins

vaunting Vivaldi’s strident strength, the Brahms,

seemed to suck with their passionate sweetness,

bit by bit, the vigor from the red,

the blazing blue, so that the listening eye

saw suddenly the thin black lines, in shapes

of shield and cross and strut and brace, that held

the holy glowing fantasy together.

The music surged; the glow became a milk

a whisper to the eye, a glimmer ebbed

until our beating hearts, our violins

were cased in thin but sold sheets of lead.

-John Updike

Tea @ Musée de la Vie Romantique, Paris

If you have no interest in standing in eternal lines at the Musée d'Orsay on a sunny summer day, this charming little (free!) museum is a perfect alternative. Located in the 9th arrondissement on 16 rue Chaptal, La Musée de la Vie Romantique is worth it mainly for the little outdoor cafe, with heavenly savory and sweet treats. Sit in the beautiful rose garden and indulge!

The museum itself, is devoted to the avant-garde author George Sand, but was actually the home to the Dutch artist Ary Scheffer, who opened his house to her (Sand) along with several artistically-gifted followers, such as Chopin (Sand's lover) and Liszet. Go with good knowledge of Sand and her works, it will feel much more personal.

Saturday, July 4, 2009

Adieu New York!

So long, Manahatta

So long, my dependable red line; my lucky silver express.
Take me to far off corners-- I only have 2 bucks.
Honk to me Mr. Taxi man; let me know if you are free!
Curry Hill or Murray Hill,
the 6-train will get me there.
Brighton Beach and Mercer street;
new sights to be seen!

So long, the long, long walks in Riverside.
I'll miss you, my 100th street willow,
And possibly you, Mr. Turkish fruit-man.
Speak to me Malcom X,
and you, Kim's fish lady.
Yo hablo Espanol!

So long, my little West Village.
Sweet Revenge. Jazz at Fat Cats.
Adieu Big Nicks and Bearded Pappa.
Lil' Frankies and Joe's will have to wait.
I'll take a Choux for the road;
no need to be late.

Good bye slooowww and steady Williamsburg,
I'll pocket your vintage and pinch your music.
Inspire me from a far, Miss street-artist.
Will hunt for you across the seas
or trace your mediocrity.

Miss me Perry Street. And you, Christopher and Commerce!
Uptown and Downtown.
Good-bye, Empire with your crunchy salmon avocado.
East side and West side!
Book stores and shoe stores!
Hello Strand. Or is it, stranger?
I'll miss you when you're gone.

Good-bye constant cacophony,
Good-bye sorrow eyes,
I'll see you somewhere, sometime down the line!

Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Art: The Generational: Younger than Jesus @ New Museum




What did Jesus do before 30? A lot...
And, if you do make it to this exhibit, go with your own bible of a guide to understand it all. Good luck. 

Friday, June 12, 2009

Art: Matisse: Cut-outs @ National Gallery



Matisse's gouaches decoupes have always been a favorite for their simplicity, minimalism and elegance. Although the National Gallery's Matisse cut-out collection is quite small, it is well worth taking a peak. Cut and composed later in Matisse's life, they continue to show the vigor, acute color sensibility and perverted spacial composition that his paintings are celebrated for. In his own words, these are his "paintings with scissors."

Thursday, June 11, 2009

Art: Luis Melendez @ the National Gallery, Washington D.C

Luis Melendez, Still Life with Watermelons and Apples, Museo del Prado, Madrid.

I have never been drawn to 'Stillleben'. What exactly is so impressive and fascinating about paintings that portray, with such excessively embroidered detail, decaying fruits and vegetables or impeccable yet improbable floral arrangements? What possibly can be the meaning behind these overly crafted compositions? Where is the emotion that, in my (narrow) mind, art needs!?

Luis Melendez, an Italian by birth, but a life-long Madrileno, captured my interest at the National Gallery in DC. The 30-odd oil on canvases by Melendez focused heavily on the juxtaposition of 'exotic' and common-place edibles displayed in various arrangements, often set in peaceful rural Spanish landscapes. From the Royal house of Asturias, Meledez was commissioned to paint "the four Seasons of the Year -- with the aim of composing an amusing cabinet with every species of food produced by the Spanish climate." It was perhaps, the painting featured above, as part of this season order: Still Life with Watermelons and Apples, that did it for me. Up close, the juicy, palpable chunks of pink watermelon dripping off the canvas with little black cockroach-like pits roaming through the rose-colored terrain, were a calling that wrote: virtuosity. He captures the subtle shifts of textures, and the gleams of light from the succulent watermelon and the lustrous pits with such care that its almost...comical!

His contemporary, Francisco Goya, overshadowed Melendez’s career and only recently has his work been re-evaluated and reappraised. Today, he is seen as one of the preeminent still-life artists.

Tuesday, June 2, 2009

Art: Francis Bacon: A Century Retrospective @ the Met

Painting, 1946 (MoMa) Oil on Canvas

"I remember looking at dog shit on the pavement and I suddenly realized, there it is--this is what life is like." --Francis Bacon

Crude, unapologetic, caged biomorphic bodies, butchered cadavers, unremorseful, pummeled faces, horrific intensity, a dance between self-love and self-loath. These are the words that spring to mind while wandering through Francis Bacon: A Century Retrospective on display at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Sixty-five punches of unrepentent intensity.

And the critics response? Same as its always been: hotly divided. While Slate's art critic, Christopher Benfey gave the show a remarkably attuned (and sagacious) appraisal , The New Yorker's art columnist (and ruler #2 of my universe--after Schama, of course), Peter Schjeldahl held Bacon's work at an arm's length in Rough Stuff, where the paintings are undermined as mere "pageant(s) of hangovers and refractory lovers." Ha!

With my own short-lived aspirations to become 'an artist' Bacon had been a powerful force in my search for self-expression. His images to me dwelled in the shadowy margins of socially 'acceptable' emotions, the angst of youth, horrors of life and death, and the battles between conceit and self-hate. Bacon's images in reproduced form, were very familiar and became part of preparatory work for my own oeuvres. Something was awry, however, as I walked through the glut of Bacon-filled rooms. I had waited what seemed to be an eternity to see a full retrospective of his work, as a thought crept in: was I really and truly feeling ever-so slightly nostalgic and (gasp!) disappointed?

What ever my own hopes and expectations were, it became clear to me that Bacon's work had once meant something quite different to eyes trained as an artistic sponge, directed to soak up emotions and inspiration. It was a revelation that today Bacon's work, while still riveting, shocking and awe-inspiring, could be appreciated from a healthy distance. It seems fruitless to dwell in my own personal development at least in blog-form-- I realized that I no longer needed Bacon's hateful and tortured images; they have served their purpose. From an art historical perspective, however, Bacon remains a seemingly eternal curiosity. Artistically he cannot be categorized as a member of the abstract expressionists, nor the Surrealists. His world-view inhabits that of existential compatriots such as Alberto Giacometti. His world stands on its own, and in some form or fashion can be seen to have inspired artists such as Lucian Freud. History (and the auction world) has proved to be been kind to this old gent, where his paintings can fetch over $80 million (in at least the pre-credit crunch era...)

Monday, June 1, 2009

Celebration: Yellow Duck + Cupcakes = Quarter of a Century in Style!

A little Veuve Clicquot (Yellow Duck or den Gula Ankka, en Suedoise) along with delectable Red Velvet and German Chocolate cupcakes from Two Little Red Hens is how I rang in my quarter-century mile-stone in the charming Upper West Side Riverside Park!

Sunday, May 31, 2009

Film: L'heure d'été (2009)

(Jeannick Gravelines/IFC Films)

"The divergent paths of three forty-something siblings collide when their mother, heiress to her uncle’s exceptional 19th century art collection, dies suddenly. Left to come to terms with themselves and their differences, Adrienne (Juliette Binoche), a successful New York designer, Frédéric, (Charles Berling) an economist and university professor in Paris, and Jérémie, (Jérémie Renier) a dynamic businessman in China, confront the end of childhood, their shared memories, background and unique vision of the future." (Film.com)

This movie felt sadly superficial; everything was basked in that late-summer August sunshine, where French feasts and wine flowed at a gorgeous chateau outside of Paris. There was such an emphasis on the precious objects left behind by the matriarch Hélène Berthier, (Edith Scob, who was superb in her fleeting role) all to be donated to the Musée d’Orsay, that I felt it was more of a crafty commercial for the museum! Berthier's death is only hinted at, and grief that naturally ensues from death is given a fleeting scene where Adrienne breaks down, but life continues affably through the objects. I suppose that was the modest purpose of this film: to give objects, whether they be rare and extraordinary pieces of art or ordinary tchochke, a much greater meaning with death. Slightly anti-climactic though!

Saturday, May 30, 2009

Design: Playfully Finnish, May 15-18th Meatpacking District


Powerkiss, Jazz Chair by Terhi Tuominen
Photographer Chikako Harada


"Finnish Design brings the dreams and challenges of our times together in a fresh new way. Based on a strong bond with nature and driven by creativity and joy it is seriously playful." -Curator, Esa Vesmanen

Set in the posh, chic and oh-so boho Ganesvoort Plaza, the PLAYFUL Finnish Design exhibit spilled out onto the cobblestone streets of the Meatpacking District in New York as part of the May 14-19th NY Design Week and was, (in that solemn Finnish fashion) serious(ly) playful indeed! The recycled shipping containers scattered inconspicuously around the Ganesvoort Plaza continuing out onto W. 13th street, were filled with sleek design-conscious, colorful (and useful!!) goodies ranging from fashion to furniture.

Woven into the works and the makeshift showrooms was the ideology for environmental mindfulness. Shigeru Ban's simple "I don't like waste" philosophy was epitomized at the Artek container (#8 on W.13th) with his 10-Unit System-- furniture made from UM ProFi wood-plastic composite-- revealing once again how fiercely ecologically conscious, simple yet ultra-advanced Ban's architecture and designs are.

The Powerkiss station (#3 at the Plaza) brought viewers a bright new vision of a futuristic world, one devoid of those cumbersome mobile phone and laptop chargers that could bemuse even the highest of techies in New York. Powerkiss' premise to "turns basic furniture into smart energy platforms" is simply put, brilliant! All you had to do to "juice up your gadgets" was to place them on the provided furniture surface, the avant-garde looking Jazz Chair with a wireless charging system by Terhi Tuominen...et voila...you're connected and charging!

From high-tech charging machines, the exhibit showcased a variety of new (and old) textile projects. The globally-recognized and distinctive patterned designs of Marimekko's fabric products were on display..seemingly all-over...with slabs of their 'new' Kalevala-inspired creations (designed by Sanna Annukka) for all to take. It was refreshing, however, to see new artists emerging onto Marimekko-dominated scene. Textile artist Outi Martikainen, whose work fits in the neglected "space between art and design," stands out for her interesting and elastic use of combined fabrics and processes. She reclaims traditional 'low-crafts' of weaving, knitting and crocheting with elegance, detail, and originality.