Thursday, July 23, 2009

Monet @ Musée de l'Orangerie

Claude Monet was not only a gifted artist, but also a very intelligent man. At Musee de L'Orangerie, you will be able to appreciate the fruits of his labor: his enormous, all-encompasing, all-embracing 'Les Nymphéas,'  that he painted for the government of France to pay off his (many) taxes! 

Monday, July 20, 2009

The essentials: Coffee, Books and Design @ Merci: 111 Blvd. Beaumarchais, 3eme Arrt

This newly opened 'concept-store' on 111 Boulevard Beaumarchais in the 3rd arrondissement boasts a vast and unique collection of designers/ fashion/ lifestyle goods/ perfume, as well as a spacious, large-windowed cafe à la New York with heaps and stacks of used books (between 2, 5 or 10 Euros) in the entry lit by rather gaudy chandeliers.

The owners of Merci, Marie-France and Bernard Cohen, are the founders of Bonpoint, the chic French children's shop, and it seems as though with Merci, their children have finally grown up! The concept of Merci is simple--and geared towards the affluent yet 'responsible and sustainable' shopper: give to a children's charity in Madagascar while you shop! With the exception of the books and cafe au lait, prices are on the upper end of the spectrum and although they do feature some interesting high end designers at discounted prices, such as Jérôme Dreyfuss, YSL, Stella McCartney, Christian Tortu, Paul & Joe I still could not justify (charity or not!) paying 1200 Euros for a Prada over-coat!! All in all, its a eye-candy of a store and a peak is well worth it.

Go for the coffee and books as well as the fantastic Grom gelato!

Bistro: Chez Janou

Pouring out from Chez Janou a neighborhood bistro, are the happy sounds of satisfied epicureans and smells of dilectable traditional Provençal-style cuisine. Rumor has it that this little Marais resto on rue Roger Verlomme in the 3rd arrondissement boasts an extensive selection of the traditional French liquor, Pastis. Although my first taste of this gem did not entail any Pastis what-so-ever, I do heartily recommend their cheapest bottle of house red, a sultry Côtes du Rhône does magic with any selection from le menu! Be prepared for a row with the maitre d' who will most likely try to squeeze your party into the smallest corner of the restaurant despite the abundance of space avaliable! Just smile and say: 'Pardon, mais non!' Reservations are a must even on a rain-forecasted Thursday night when 'la crise' (credit crunch) rages on, because by 9.30PM this place is packed!
Photograph by John Kernick

Concert: Vivaldi and Pachelbel @ Île de Saint-Louis in Sainte-Chapelle

Imagine sitting in a French chapel on Île de Saint-Louis built in 1242 by the canonized King, Louis XII and a quartet is about perform. Sunlight streams into the chapel's magnificent rose window as Pachelbel's Cannon in D Major starts. You are perplexed because the program indicated a Mozart, but delighted, because it just so happens to be your favorite Baroque Era piece. By the end of Vivaldi's Four Seasons, you have entered a peaceful reverie!

Evening concert, Sainte-Chapelle

The celebrated windows flamed with light

directly pouring north across the Seine;

we restled into place. Then violins

vaunting Vivaldi’s strident strength, the Brahms,

seemed to suck with their passionate sweetness,

bit by bit, the vigor from the red,

the blazing blue, so that the listening eye

saw suddenly the thin black lines, in shapes

of shield and cross and strut and brace, that held

the holy glowing fantasy together.

The music surged; the glow became a milk

a whisper to the eye, a glimmer ebbed

until our beating hearts, our violins

were cased in thin but sold sheets of lead.

-John Updike

Tea @ Musée de la Vie Romantique, Paris

If you have no interest in standing in eternal lines at the Musée d'Orsay on a sunny summer day, this charming little (free!) museum is a perfect alternative. Located in the 9th arrondissement on 16 rue Chaptal, La Musée de la Vie Romantique is worth it mainly for the little outdoor cafe, with heavenly savory and sweet treats. Sit in the beautiful rose garden and indulge!

The museum itself, is devoted to the avant-garde author George Sand, but was actually the home to the Dutch artist Ary Scheffer, who opened his house to her (Sand) along with several artistically-gifted followers, such as Chopin (Sand's lover) and Liszet. Go with good knowledge of Sand and her works, it will feel much more personal.

Saturday, July 4, 2009

Adieu New York!

So long, Manahatta

So long, my dependable red line; my lucky silver express.
Take me to far off corners-- I only have 2 bucks.
Honk to me Mr. Taxi man; let me know if you are free!
Curry Hill or Murray Hill,
the 6-train will get me there.
Brighton Beach and Mercer street;
new sights to be seen!

So long, the long, long walks in Riverside.
I'll miss you, my 100th street willow,
And possibly you, Mr. Turkish fruit-man.
Speak to me Malcom X,
and you, Kim's fish lady.
Yo hablo Espanol!

So long, my little West Village.
Sweet Revenge. Jazz at Fat Cats.
Adieu Big Nicks and Bearded Pappa.
Lil' Frankies and Joe's will have to wait.
I'll take a Choux for the road;
no need to be late.

Good bye slooowww and steady Williamsburg,
I'll pocket your vintage and pinch your music.
Inspire me from a far, Miss street-artist.
Will hunt for you across the seas
or trace your mediocrity.

Miss me Perry Street. And you, Christopher and Commerce!
Uptown and Downtown.
Good-bye, Empire with your crunchy salmon avocado.
East side and West side!
Book stores and shoe stores!
Hello Strand. Or is it, stranger?
I'll miss you when you're gone.

Good-bye constant cacophony,
Good-bye sorrow eyes,
I'll see you somewhere, sometime down the line!